Description

We use .9999 (certified 99.99% pure) silver electrodes, 7″ long (18 cm), 12 AWG (1.63mm or 0.064″ in diameter). One pair will make approximately 100 gallons of 5-10 ppm colloidal silver.

The Silvonic Pro uses 2 7″ U-shaped electrodes.
The Silvonic Turbo uses 2 14″ U-shaped electrodes.
The Silvonic 1G (discontinued) uses 4 14″ U-shaped electrodes.We also sell straight rods.

Additional information

Two .9999 silver electrodes, 7″ long (18 cm), 12 AWG (1.63mm or 0.064″ in diameter).

If you follow these instructions, you cannot make a bad batch of colloidal silver! We have made the device goof-proof and totally automatic. Just set it and forget it.
1.) Test distilled water with the meter (000 µS best, but up to 003 works). The purer the water, the better the CS. The Silvonic Pro constantly measures conductivity and shuts off quickly in water with minerals. RO or de-ionized may have particles not detected by the meter that form unwanted compounds that will settle to the bottom.
2.) Use a glass container (8-24 oz 16 oz ideal). Larger batches need stirring. Rinse with distilled water. Soap residue, water spots, and finger prints can add to the reading. Add enough water to cover the maximum amount of silver without touching the electrode sockets (about 1/2” below the rim). Heating the water up to 100° F speeds the process but hotter may damage the circuitry.
3.) Insert the longer legs of the silver rods firmly into the sockets on the underside of the device. Align the U-shaped rods parallel to each other. You should not have to twist or bend the rods much to make them parallel.
4.) Set the Silvonic Pro on top of a glass container with a 2-3” opening. Submerge the rods as much as possible without getting the sockets wet.
5.) Connect the Silvonic Pro to the 110-240V AC power supply, or use the auxiliary power cable attached to 12-36V, eg a combination of 9V batteries.
Do not press the programming button unless you want to make stronger CS. The Silvonic Pro will automatically shut off at around 12 ppm.
The green/red LED will light up faintly and change color/polarity every 5 minutes. This SWAP technique minimizes build-up on the rods and the need to stir batches under 24 oz, as well as making the electrodes wear evenly. NOTE: the LED will not light up unless the electrodes are in the water. LED brightness indicates current flow. When the Silvonic Pro detects enough conductive silver ions in the water (about 12 µS/ppm), the light goes out. Check the strength. Restart and add strength if desired with the program button. As the solution stabilizes, the reading may drop a few points. Clear colloidal silver from 5-15 µS/ppm works best internally because it has nano-size particles and highest ratio of ions, remains stable longer, does not build up in the body, and tolerates light.

Brewing time: It may take several hours to make a batch. Adding a little CS from a previous batch will speed up the process. The purer and colder the water, the longer it takes. Batches larger than 24 oz will benefit from stirring to prevent clumping. For optimal quality, make pint (16 oz/.5L) or smaller batches. Faster CS Generators cannot make the Silvonic Pro’s clear, nano-particle CS with high ionic content. Note: To restart the Silvonic Pro, disconnect the power, wait about 5 seconds and reconnect to power.

Thermal Stirring: Making 32 oz or less does not require stirring but it may improve the CS. Painting or applying dark tape to one side of the container and exposing to sun or a nearby light (eg, desk lamp) will stir the water by creating a temperature differential as warm water rises and cooler sinks.

CS strength: Strength matters less than particle size and ionic proportion. Meters only give a rough approximation of strength. Instead of making stronger colloidal silver to use internally, just use more nano-sized 5-15 ppm Silvonic CS. When in doubt, take more!
For more info on CS strength, how to use CS, accessories, related products, instructional videos
and techniques, see WWW.ELIXA.COM and our “Elixa Silver” Youtube channel. We’re here for you.

Many opinions exist about how to measure the strength of CS and many variables affect meter readings. TDS meters read low when testing CS by as much as 50The EC-3 conductivity meter reading equates to ppm.

5-15 µS/ppm CS has optimal particle size and should have little color. Yellow CS above 20 µS/ppm has larger particles not optimal for internal use but works externally on wounds, burns, bites, fungus, eyes, dandruff, etc.

Making stronger CS: Once the process starts, you can add time to the process by briefly (less than a second) pressing the programming button. Each press adds an additional brew step, adding about 2 µS per pint. The yellow LED will flash and then stay on, indicating that it has accepted the programming. It stays on until the CS has reaches the automatic shut-off point of around 12 µS, at which point it will flash the number of times the button was pushed. This countdown continues until all the lights go off. Check strength with the EC-3 meter.

To make the batch stronger once it has shut off, disconnect the power, wait at least 3 seconds, reconnect power, wait another 3 seconds and then press the button briefly. The yellow LED will blink once, stay on briefly and then shut off. After a short time the LED will flash the number of times you have pressed the button. If the green LED goes off before you can use the programming button, you can remove the device from the jar, do the power off reset, and then press the button. The yellow LED will show that it has entered the Manual mode. Put the device on the jar. Additional button pushes will add about 2 µS per pint. The green/red LED will still cycle.

Direct Current (DC) Mode: To make structured water* or to make CS with “bad” water, press the button at any time for at least 5 seconds. In DC mode, the yellow LED stays off and the green/red LED stays green.
*For instructions on how to make structured water, see below.

Electrode care: They will normally discolor from silver oxide (harmless). Wipe the silver rods clean with a cloth. Do not scrub hard or use cleaners or polish. Pure water prevents black build-up and sediment (not harmful). Decant or run thru a coffee filter if desired. The electrodes can make about 100 gallons of 10 µS/ppm CS.

Storage: The CS you make with the Silvonic Pro will stay potent and stable for a long time (years if stored in glass at room temp) but works best when used fresh. Check it with the meter for approximate strength.

Do not refrigerate or freeze. Light will not harm properly brewed CS made with pure distilled water. Store in a non-metal container. We prefer glass, but you can use good quality plastic like recyclable #1 “PETE”.

Color: Ideally clear to pale yellow. Various environmental factors and contaminants can make CS turn colors. Note: Distilled water may read 000 and still have non-conductive particles which can produce color and residue. Store distilled water in glass to avoid leaching plastic which can affect the CS quality.

Using the Silvonic Pro with other power sources: Connect the auxiliary power cable’s clips to any source of 12-36 volts AC or DC. Polarity does not matter. You cannot hook it up wrong. For example, 2, 3, or 4 nine volt batteries hooked together in series, solar panels, automobile batteries, and most wall chargers work.

Troubleshooting:

Please read the instructions carefully before calling us. We have never seen a Silvonic Pro malfunction. Problems usually come from using bad water (always check it with the meter), using too much water (over 24 oz) without stirring, pressing the program button at the wrong time, etc.

>”The light comes on and then goes off when I put the rods in the water.”
The water has too many impurities. Try another brand of distilled water. Check it with your EC-3 meter.

>”I hook it up to a 9V battery and the light doesn’t come on when I touch the output leads together.”
 It takes a minimum of 16V to run in auto-shut-off mode.

>”I used a different AC power supply and it doesn’t work although the plug seems to fit.” Even though the plug may seem to fit, it may have a different size inner hole and will not make an electrical connection.

>”The CS turns yellow.” 
You made it stronger than 15 ppm. It still works but clear CS works better internally. Use the yellow stuff topically on cuts, burns, athlete’s foot, dandruff, etc. Some distilled water, even though it reads 000 on the TDS meter, still has impurities that can affect the quality of the CS, making it turn yellow. It still works, but you should try another brand of water.

Tech talk on TDS, PPM and meters (why we use the EC-3 Conductivity Meter):
All hand held PWT/TDS/PPM meters work the same way. They actually measure conductivity not PPM. They are simply not the same thing.

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids)

meters measure conductivity but then convert that measurement to an estimated PPM (parts per million) using water industry standard tables for dissolved salts (NaCl in this case). Since Ionic/Colloidal Silver is not a mineral salt, it behaves differently and requires a different technique for measuring strength.

When checking water, TDS meters give a good approximation of purity. However, when checking Colloidal Silver made with pure distilled water the reading should be doubled. If a TDS meter reads 10, it actually shows about 20 PPM of colloidal silver.

Due to range and resolution limitations, when measuring colloidal silver with a TDS  meter you should also allow for an error factor of at least +/- 10So for example 10 on the TDS meter could be as high as 22 PPM or as low as 18 PPM of colloidal when doubled.

Meters such as the Hanna PWT, the HM Digital EC3 and COM-100 read out directly in Microsiemens of Conductivity (uS). The COM100 also reads out in 3 different scenarios for PPM depending on the suspected dominant mineral salt content.
Colloidal Silver water is NOT salt water.

To get a good idea of what the PPM is in CS, use 1uS = ~1 PPM.
Concentrations over the saturation point of Ionic Silver in water [~ 10 PPM ] will progressively and variably form more and more non-conductive “particles” accounting for some of the difference between Faraday Equation Prediction vs Conductivity Monitoring.
Beyond around 25 PPM in silver water a meter reading will have considerable slew towards the low side and a batch may never register more than 30 uS the day after it’s done even though it may really be 50+ PPM

This method has been checked against samples tested by an Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometer at a range average of 12 PPM at 85eadable ionic, but not at 20+ uS.

With very pure distilled water, you may need a dark room to see the green light. If the device shuts off too soon, check the water with the meter. If it reads more than 013, the Silvonic Pro will shut off quickly.
Quick test and reset: Rotate silver rods so they touch. Keeping them in contact (you won’t get a shock), connect power and watch the light. It should come on for a few seconds and shut off. If not, contact us for help.

LIFETIME WARRANTY: If the Silvonic Pro CS Generator ever fails, we will repair or replace it for the original owner. (Void if back opened, physically damaged by moisture or misuse. S&H not covered.) Before sending it back, contact us for help. The Silvonic Pro almost never fails unless physically damaged.

Making Structured Microcluster Water:

Set the Silvonic Pro on top of 2 glasses
with a rod in each glass and a cotton wick bridging
the 2 glasses. Drink the water in the left glass.

Take 2 glass or plastic containers ( not  metal) and fill them with water which contains minerals. Create a conductive bridge between the 2 glasses with a cloth strip with one end in each container of water. It should get saturated quickly.  Put one silver electrode in each container by straddling the device over the 2 cups. Plug in the power to the Silvonic Turbo. The green light should come on. After 5 seconds, engage the Manual DC Mode by holding the program button down for at least 5 seconds. The left yellow LED should stay off and the right LED should stay green and not change to red after 5 minutes as in normal SWAP mode. Run the device for around 5 minutes. NOTE: Only drink the water in the left (negative) glass. The electrode on the same side as the yellow LED is negative when the green light is on. Throw the other water away or use it externally or on plants. (You can use tap water in the right positive glass instead of saline.)

While you can run the system as long as you like, it probably does not improve after about 5 minutes.

Making Structured Microcluster Water with Redox Signalling Molecules (like the outrageously expensive ASEA product).

Use the above procedure but fill the cups with distilled water and add about 1/8 tsp salt to 1 cup water. It should read around 700 ppm* on the meter.

*You can use less salt and still make structured water but it may not have the same levels of redox signaling molecules.